Key Takeaways

Understanding Exposure

Exposure is simply the amount of light that reaches your camera's sensor. Too little light produces a dark (underexposed) image. Too much light produces a bright (overexposed) image. The goal is typically a "correct" exposure where the subject is properly illuminated with detail retained in shadows and highlights.

Three camera settings control exposure:

1. Aperture: The size of the lens opening
2. Shutter Speed: How long the sensor is exposed to light
3. ISO: The sensor's sensitivity to light

These three work together—change one, and you must compensate with another to maintain the same exposure. This relationship is the "exposure triangle."

Aperture: Controlling Light and Depth

Aperture is the adjustable opening in your lens that controls how much light passes through. It's measured in f-stops (f/1.4, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, etc.).

The Counterintuitive Part

Smaller f-numbers mean LARGER openings (more light). Larger f-numbers mean SMALLER openings (less light).

• f/1.4: Very large opening, lots of light
• f/2.8: Large opening, substantial light
• f/8: Medium opening, moderate light
• f/16: Small opening, limited light

Each "stop" doubles or halves the light. Moving from f/2.8 to f/4 cuts light in half. Moving from f/5.6 to f/4 doubles the light.

Depth of Field

Beyond exposure, aperture controls depth of field—how much of your image is in sharp focus.

• Wide apertures (f/1.4-f/2.8): Shallow depth of field. Subject is sharp, background is blurry (bokeh). Ideal for portraits, isolating subjects, creating romantic feel.
• Mid apertures (f/4-f/8): Moderate depth of field. Good for couples, small groups, details with context.
• Narrow apertures (f/11-f/16): Deep depth of field. Most of the scene is sharp. Ideal for group shots, landscapes, architectural details.

Shutter Speed: Controlling Time

Shutter speed is how long your camera's shutter stays open, exposing the sensor to light. It's measured in seconds or fractions of seconds (1/1000, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1", 2", etc.).

The Motion Factor

Beyond exposure, shutter speed controls how motion appears:

• Fast shutter (1/500+): Freezes motion. Sharp images of moving subjects. Essential for dancing, bouquet tosses, energetic moments.
• Moderate shutter (1/125-1/250): Suitable for still or slowly moving subjects. Standard for portraits.
• Slow shutter (1/60 and below): Shows motion blur. Can be creative but risks camera shake without stabilization.

The Handholding Rule

To avoid camera shake when handholding, your shutter speed should be at least 1/(focal length). With a 50mm lens, shoot at 1/50 or faster. With a 200mm lens, shoot at 1/200 or faster.

Image stabilization (IBIS or lens-based) lets you go 2-5 stops slower—a 200mm lens might be sharp at 1/30 with good stabilization. But this only helps camera shake, not subject motion.

ISO: Sensor Sensitivity

ISO controls how sensitive your sensor is to light. Higher ISO means more sensitivity—the sensor amplifies the light signal, allowing proper exposure in darker conditions.

The Trade-Off

Higher ISO introduces noise (grain) into your images. Modern cameras handle high ISO remarkably well, but there's always a trade-off.

• ISO 100-400: Clean, detailed images. Use in bright light.
• ISO 800-1600: Slight noise, excellent quality. Good for indoor natural light.
• ISO 3200-6400: Visible noise but very usable. Standard for dim receptions.
• ISO 12800+: Noticeable noise but often necessary. Dance floors, dark venues.

ISO Philosophy

Don't fear high ISO. A sharp, properly exposed image at ISO 6400 beats a blurry, underexposed image at ISO 400. Noise is fixable in post-processing; blur and missed moments are not.

Balancing the Triangle

The triangle is about trade-offs. You can't have everything—understanding what to prioritize is the skill.

Scenario: Bright Outdoor Ceremony

Lots of light means flexibility. Prioritize aperture for creative depth of field.

• Set aperture for desired depth: f/2.8
• Set ISO low for clean images: ISO 100
• Let shutter speed fall where it may: 1/2000

Scenario: Dim Church Ceremony

Limited light requires compromise. You need enough shutter speed to avoid blur, so aperture and ISO compensate.

• Open aperture wide: f/2.8
• Set minimum usable shutter: 1/125
• Raise ISO to compensate: ISO 3200

Scenario: Dark Dance Floor

Fast-moving subjects in low light—the hardest scenario. Everything gets pushed.

• Wide aperture for light: f/2.8
• Fast shutter for motion: 1/250-1/400
• High ISO: ISO 6400+
• Add flash: Allows lower ISO or faster shutter

Understanding Metering

Your camera's meter measures light and suggests exposure settings. Understanding metering modes helps you get accurate exposures.

Metering Modes

Evaluative/Matrix: Camera analyzes the entire frame and calculates a balanced exposure. Good default for most situations.

Center-Weighted: Prioritizes the center of the frame. Useful when your subject is centered and the edges are very different (bright sky, dark corners).

Spot: Meters only a small point (usually your focus point). Precise control for tricky lighting—meter on the subject's face in backlit situations.

The 18% Gray Assumption

Camera meters assume the world averages to 18% gray. Scenes that are predominantly dark or light fool the meter:

• White wedding dress? Camera underexposes (makes it gray)
• Dark tuxedo? Camera overexposes (makes it gray)

Use exposure compensation (+/- buttons) to correct. For a white dress, add +1 to +1.5 stops. For a dark scene, subtract -1 stop.

Exposure Modes

Manual Mode (M)

You control all three settings. Full creative control but requires constant attention as light changes. Best for controlled lighting (flash setups, studio work) or when light is consistent.

Aperture Priority (Av/A)

You set aperture and ISO; camera selects shutter speed. Most wedding photographers' default mode. Control depth of field and let the camera adapt to changing light.

Shutter Priority (Tv/S)

You set shutter speed and ISO; camera selects aperture. Useful when motion is the priority—fast action, intentional blur effects.

Program (P)

Camera selects aperture and shutter; you control ISO and can shift the combination. Rarely used by professionals but can work in run-and-gun situations.

Quick Reference: Wedding Settings

These are starting points—adjust based on conditions:

Scenario	Aperture	Shutter	ISO
Outdoor portraits	f/1.8-f/2.8	1/200+	100-400
Indoor ceremony	f/2.8-f/4	1/125+	1600-6400
Group portraits	f/5.6-f/8	1/200+	400-1600
Reception (ambient)	f/2.8	1/125+	3200-6400
Reception (flash)	f/4-f/5.6	1/200	800-1600
Dancing	f/2.8-f/4	1/250+	3200-6400
Details (rings, etc.)	f/2.8-f/5.6	1/100+	400-1600

Hawaii Exposure Considerations

Midday Sun

Hawaiian sun at midday is brutally harsh. Expect to shoot at ISO 100, f/8-f/11, 1/1000+ in direct sun. For portraits, find open shade or use fill flash/reflectors to soften shadows.

Beach Reflections

Sand and water reflect enormous amounts of light. Your meter may underexpose—add +0.5 to +1 stop compensation for proper skin tones.

Sunset Transitions

Hawaiian sunsets are quick. Light changes dramatically in 15-20 minutes. During sunset portraits, expect to change settings every few shots. Stay in Aperture Priority and watch your shutter speed—as light drops, you may need to open up or raise ISO.

Backlit Ocean Scenes

Shooting toward the ocean with subjects backlit creates extreme dynamic range. Use spot metering on faces, expose for skin, and let the background blow out—or use fill flash to balance.

Practice Exercises

Technical mastery requires practice. Try these exercises:

1. Aperture exploration: Photograph the same subject at f/1.8, f/4, f/8, and f/11. Compare depth of field.
2. Shutter speed test: Photograph a moving subject (person walking) at 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500. Find your threshold for sharpness.
3. ISO ladder: Photograph the same scene at ISO 100, 800, 3200, 6400, 12800. Note where noise becomes unacceptable.
4. Equivalent exposures: Achieve the same exposure with three different aperture/shutter/ISO combinations. Observe how each affects the final image.

Summary

The exposure triangle is your fundamental control over light. Key principles:

• Aperture: Controls light and depth of field. Wide = more light, shallow focus. Narrow = less light, deep focus.
• Shutter Speed: Controls light and motion. Fast = less light, frozen action. Slow = more light, motion blur.
• ISO: Controls sensitivity. Higher = more sensitivity but more noise.
• Balance: Change one, compensate with another. Prioritize based on the creative need.
• Practice: Understanding is intellectual; skill is physical. Shoot until settings become instinctive.

When you can look at a scene and know your settings before raising the camera, you've mastered the exposure triangle. That mastery frees your mind for what matters—the moments, the emotions, the story.